Having spent the night being lashed by rain and jolted about by wind, we woke up to a very calm morning and even some blue sky. I went for a stroll on the island – Wolfgang having gone for a longer and damper one the previous evening – past the huge, squat lighthouse and along the path through the pebbles to a little chapel from the 17th century. There’s a big iron key hanging next to the door so you can let yourself in – you turn it clockwise, Swedish fashion – and inside it’s full of the kind of calm simplicity that’s the basis of Scandinavian interior decorating. There was a votive ship and a big quite about the church being the ship of Christ. But living in the shadow of that lighthouse, in that sea, anyone would be a bit ship obsessed.
Then we set off and motored all the way to Husiliiharen just outside Gävle where we have a fantastic view of two big power stations.